Bought a #Creality Ender 3 V2 3D printer from #MicroCenter for $99. I am setting it up using Just Vlad's video on YouTube. He is making what would be a terrible time with their instructions super easy with his video. https://youtu.be/gokN9xNG94U
Here's a bunch of 3D models I've made or remixed for the Ender 5 S1 printer and / or the Creality Sprite extruder, enjoy!
- Cooling Rig with dual 5015 + 4020 + Zero Y Offset: https://www.printables.com/model/466361-ender-5-s1-cooling-dual-5015-4020-zero-y-offset-nb
- EBB36 Mount: https://www.printables.com/model/456534-ebb36-mount-for-creality-sprite-ender-5-s1
- Case for DC buck converters based on MP1584 https://www.printables.com/model/476993-case-for-dc-converter-based-on-mp1584
- LED light bar mount: https://www.printables.com/model/468315-led-light-bar-bar-mount-2020-v-slot
- Hotend Mount / Adapter: https://www.printables.com/model/452284-hotend-mount-adapter-for-ender-5-s1
- Nozzle Cleaning Brush: https://www.printables.com/model/450432-nozzle-cleaning-brush-ender-5-s1-2020-mount
- CR-Touch - Zero Y Offset Mod: https://www.printables.com/model/440272-ender-5-s1-cr-touch-zero-y-offset-mod-stronger-lon
#3DPrinting #Ender #Ender5 #Ender5S1 #Creality #Sprite #3DModel #Printing #OpenSource #Printable #BigTreeTech #BTT
I had issues with my Ender-3 and I just couldn't figure it out.
Was it the new heatbreak, or the nozzle. Maybe there was a clog somewhere in the line?
After hours troubleshooting I figured it out. It was the e-steps.
I had also replaced the plastic extruder bit with a metal one. And I had forgotten to recalibrate the e-steps.
Test Benchy is printing now, and even in the first couple of layers I notice the difference.
Always calibrate after physical changes!
Just a few more parts to print for my carbon fiber 3d printed ukelele.
Probably time to order some strings
This design is not mine but can be found on printables.com
#marimoko #3dprinting #diy #ukelele #music #luthier #printables.com #prusa #creality
E já tem coisa vindo por hoje. #3dprinting #Creality
Qual está melhor? #filament #filamentTemperature #creality #3edprinting
Finally running a first calibration print off on the upgraded Ender 5 Plus. Can’t believe how quiet it is with the new main board. If there were no fans in the case it would be almost silent! Those 2208 drivers are fantastic. #3DPrinting #Creality #Ender5Plus
Which ones do you have? Currently, I can only get the #Creality and #eSun dryers.
The Creality one is very limited in its settings, and the eSun one is just too expensive.
Die neue Firmware auf dem #3ddrucker ist super. Wenn zu viel Zeit nach dem Auswerfen beim Filamentwechsel verstreicht, senkt er die Tempe des Druckkopfes um Strom zu sparen.
Just set up my #Creality #Ender 5 S1 with their Sonic Pad and while the setup wizard is super simple, it would fail auto leveling every time. Spectacularly in fact- the head would move too far to the left where the cr touch was off the bed but the nozzle wasn't, this flexed the bed and caused an error, but also caused the Z motor to release resulting in a loud screaming sound!! The fix was to edit x_offset in printer.cfg to -10, but OMG how did the firmware get out the door like this?? #klipper
I am using the stock #Creality #CR6SE setup and board, with stock motors and drivers. I have asked on your CR6SE community discord now whether it is possible.
#TeachingTech on Youtube has a video for #Creality #CR6SE style leveling, which is what I have, for the #Ender3
Load cell leveling is great, I use it, but it can have its quirks. Just make sure that the bowden tube doesn't mess with the sensor. If you have a direct drive, then I think it would be one of the best solutions if you don't have the flexibility of a #Voron #Stealthburner.
Just to make sure, you are running #Klipper here with the native Klipper LCD support? That is also the default #Ender3 display, right?
It really looks great! I just love the icon for the nozzle, it looks very good. I've been wondering if I want to go for a touch screen and #KlipperScreen or just for an LCD display like this. I have a #Creality #CR6SE, so my fisplay is currently not working with Klipper.
The #Creality #CR6SE had a large footprint because it is a bed slinger, so to enclose it completely, I have an 80x80x80 enclosure around it. That's a lot of air. For fast high prints, using the bed is too slow.
I pf course overkilled it, and it isn't necessary, but I can set a temperature from room temperature to 60°C and it is automatically controlled.
So, because I can😂
I’ve at last found some time to troubleshoot the #BigTreeTech SKR 2 I installed into the #Creality #Ender5Plus at Christmas.
I removed all the cables and then reconnected them one at a time, turning the power on afterwards and waiting to see what happened.
Everything worked fine, until I got to the last thing to connect, the BLTouch module. As soon as the three-wire connector was plugged in, the board started shutting down again.
So just an update on this.
I calibrated my e-esteps after this, because it came with a different gear for the extruder motor and I decided to replace mine, because this one was taller and after about 3 years of printing I could see a smaal line in mine due to friction over all my prints.
I also haven't calibrated my e-steps since moving to #Klipper. I probably should have, but I still had the stock setup and used the Klipper community config combined with the official #Creality config they have on their Sonicpad's Github.
My first print is looking good. It is actually a Klipper calibration (my own parametric #OpenScad design to allow you to customize the size for better acceleration and top speed).
But one thing I've noticed is that I have a slight over extrusion. Which I think is due to my extrusion multiplier in my slicer, which I calibrated over the years for this filament. It might have been due to miss calibrated esteps, but I need to update it now.
I also upgraded to an all metal extruder for my #Creality #CR6SE because mine was about 3 years old, and the gears required some maintenance. Suppringly, this entire kit was cheaper than the gears and capricorn tube alone, so I just went for it.
Sharing some printer farm pics #3dprinting #raspberrypi #octoprint #prusa #creality #ender5plus #canofbeans
I've not used it, but I'm also keeping my eye on it. It is more expensive than the #Creality variant but has more functiontions.
Official #Prusa: https://discord.gg/prusa3d
Official #Klipper: https://discord.klipper3d.org/
Official #VoidStarLabs (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/voidstarlab
Official #Octoprint: https://discord.gg/ThTbRmXC
Community #Creality #CR6SE focussed: https://discord.gg/M635Kzpc
Official #Marlin: https://discord.gg/dEAjzur9
Official #ModBot (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/NEpd2A5ACe
Official #Nero3D (#Youtube): @3dprinting #3dprinting
Official #SteveBuilds (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog
Official #247Printing (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog
Official #LostInTech (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/tQQPNSCTKP
After seeing more and more posts of popular benchmarks: bechiez, torture toasters, or massive prints.
In order to help the community better understand your achievement, Wmwe would like to make a poll of whether certain information should be included. This can also help with feedback from the community.
Let me or @Stark9837 know how you feel about this, what should happen to posts that break the rules, and what we can improve the quality of posts?
#3dprinting #3dprint #klipper #moonraker #fluid #group #poll #moderation #creality #prusa #bambulabs #sovol #voron
I love the building and tinkering, debugging, and struggles. It is how I spend my late nights when I can't sleep or on a rainy day.
That being said, I wouldn't mine an ol' reliable #Bambulab #X1C just to have for when I need something quick.
I have found myself while designing a new hotend for my #Creality #CR6SE in #Fusion360 that it didn't fit, and I had to put everything back again just to print a file again.
So another printer for that would be fun, but working on a printer is like working on a car with your father in the garage. You never finish it, but the journey is priceless, and one day, the first drive is so rewarding. You just sit back with a bear and smile at what you have created.
I do this every night. When it is late, I just turn on my enclosure LEDs in my dark room and stare at my wiring.
I have no circuit diagrams or plans. The entire thing is mine, and in my head
If it is not 32-bit, it would benefit the most. 32-bit boards are faster and more accurate, so this would benefit all printers and have the most benefit if you have an 8-bit board.
All prints in this thread were done on a #Creality #CR6SE, which is 32-bit, and you can see the increased performance. So imagine on an 8-bit.
"What’s more interesting is that the K1 series is equipped with substantial networking, cloud connectivity, and remote control features. It seems that Creality has implemented some form of farm management system where an array of K1s could be running production jobs."
This could be great! Maybe #Creality now feels as if their printers are on par with #Prusa, after the #MK3 outperformed the #Ender3 in #PrintFarm usage.
The #Ender3 just wasn't reliable enough, and if it was used, it had to be heavily modded.
But a new age of print farms has grown with the release of the #Bambulab #X1C. Someone could have a small print farm for their products without any #3dprinting skill and juet plug-and-play their printers.
Creating a commercial print-and-play solution is a great step.
It will be interesting to see if this is a fork of #Octofarm, a multi-printer #Klipper and #Mainsail setup, or something brand new. #Prusa already have their own solutions.
"There’s also an “AI Camera” system that uses a 1080p sensor and machine learning to automatically detect print failures. This item can be purchased separately for use in other machines."
Unfortunately, #Creality has shown itself to be like #Apple, only having their own camera working with their WiFi box addition and limiting certain features to it.
So I wonder if you would have full access to this if you use their printer vut with another camera?
"The advanced leveling accessory mentioned above is installed by default in the K1 Max. This accessory includes a LIDAR sensor that scans the print bed and develops a surface model of “one million points”. That’s equivalent to 1,000 x 1,000 touches for mechanical sensors used in other equipment. The K1 series also includes a strain sensor built into the toolhead. Creality said, "
Some have called the LiDar a gimic on the #BambuLab #X1C, so I wonder if #Creality only opten for this for the trend and hype or that they brought in their own design here and use cases.
Furthermore, their first printer with the strain guage was the #crowdfunded and #KickStarter #CR6SR, which I personally have. Although it simplifies the bed leveling process and I never understood or experienced the struggles of #Ender3 leveleing, it had its own problems.
There is #KlipperScreen for #Klipper. One of my reasons that I haven't moved over to #Klipper yet is because then the display on my #Creality #CR6SE will be useless, and I currently don't have a touchscreen for my #RaspberryPi.
Over the weekend, #Creality announced a whole list of new products that will be hitting shelves soon. The most notable is the K1 #3Dprinter. It appears to be a direct competitor to some of the recent ultra fast #3Dprinting machines like the #Bambu x1 or #P1P. The race for super high speed, high quality parts is heating up; find out more on our blog:
Oh wow! Didn't know that #Marlin implemented input shaping! Quite exciting for the #3dprinting world, because we need the competition to drive innovation, but I wonder how it would do.
We are now getting machines with #Klipper, and the hardest part of Klipper is the installation. If machines already come with it, then some wouldn't even notice.
#Marlin has the upper hand for supporting LCD displays, where #Klipper needs a web interface, so #Marlin supporting input shaping could possibly halt this transition to #Klipper for popular machines.
That being said, #Klipper is already sipported on most machines, and we will need older #Marlin firmware for printers such as the #Ender3 to be updated if #Creality will still do it. Otherwise, we need to wait for the communities.
Fans are consumables, and you need to replace them every few years! I replaced both my original #Creality 30mm axial fan with another official one and replaced the part cooling fan with a 5015 blower fan!
The load cell also has some interference problems. The heat and current draw from the hotend affect the accuracy. In the official #firmware, this is still a problem. The #Creality #CR6SE community firmware has solved this by turning off the hotend just as the nozzle touches the bed. Which improves the accuracy. I assume #Prusa has solved this and also did it.
The load cell is also sensitive to bowden tube setups. Because the hotend is basically on a lever, the bowden tube can press down on the hotend in different corners of the printer, resulting in incorrect measurements.
I solved this using the CR6 SE #Discord community to recalibrate the trigger level by using a scale and adjusting the z-offset, but the interference is still there.
I hope #Prusa has solved all of this, and this would also expand the support for load cells.
I don't know how I feel about the load cell, but I think it is due to my experience with the #Creality #CR6SE.
The CR6 SE was one of the first mainstream machines to use it, but the community is a lot smaller than the #Ender3 community. So, I struggled to get #opensource designs for the hotend. I literally posted my own design yesterday, after having my machine for 2 years now. That's how long it took me.
So, I wasn't able to get upgrades and support for it. The CR6 SE community has grown, and we have a #Discord server now, but it was difficult in the beginning.
Then the problem was also #firmware. #Marlin and #Klippr didn't support the load cell at first, so we have an extra board on our hotend, which had to be reverse engineered by the Discord community, because #Creality didn't make it opensource at first.
Watch this video by #Slant3D regarding the company and minds behind #Bambulab. You'll clearly see that the team has insane expertise in the field, no offense to #Prusa here.
But it is like comparing Nikola Tesla and Edison. Two different methods, two different processes and pricedures. Prusa is aimed at the work horses and Bambulab more to rapid prototyping and engineering.
No offense to either company here.
I, to feel Prusa, is a bit behind. No one is even emntioning #Creality, and what about #Sovol? No, just pushing out larger bedslingers in a time everyone just wants core XY?
I have complete the first version of my #remix of the #voron style #afterburner hotened for the #creality #CR6SE. I hope you enjoy it!
Please don't tell me how bad my decision is :tiredcat:
#3dprinting #3dprinter #creality #crealityender3s1 #ender3s1 #crealityender3 #ender3
I'm usually printing with 0.16 mm layer height or 0.28 mm when doing just a test.
I've seen the 0.08 mm layer height in Prusa Slicer but haven't tried it... until now.
Well, this surprised me to say the least, I did not expect an FDM 3D printer to be able to print this tiny details so nicely! That's a regular LEGO minifigure of Han Solo.
It's an Ender 3 Pro using Prusa Slicer's "0.08 mm superdetail" profile with no tuning.
Anti-Spill cup carrier 3D printed. Allows a person to walk around carrying a full coffee cup without spilling. Decided to test it, and it works amazingly well. I walked at full speed in the dark this morning in the house with zero spills. The stuff floating on my coffee is some cinnamon. #3Dprinting #creality #cr6se #HawaiiMastodon https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3027680
I spent the WHOLE day trying to fix my #Ender3 3D printer with no success...
It seems that I have an under extrusion issue but I tried
- Slower speed
- Higher temperature
- Recalibrating the extruder
- Changed the Bowden PTFE tube
- Changed the nozzle and cleaned the hot end.
Prints are still shit... Now it's either I go and buy new parts again, or just give up and save a bit to get a new one that is more user friendly (thinking of the #bambulab P1P... But I need to explore a bit)
I might lessen the time that I do GIS in favor of learning (free and open source) design and 3d printing apps. The ones I have running here are FreeCAD and Cura.
Did my first "functional" print: a notebook binder. I wanted to take some notes last night and found some replacement notebook leaves lying around the house so I did what any sane person with a 3d printer would do: find a way to 3d print a solution. 😂
#3dprinting #design #maker #opensource #foss #freecad #cura #ender2pro #creality
I hope I just gave life again to my #creality cr6 se via a community firmware that I found.
I really liked the Parrot dual-color filament so I played a bit with it, it turns out Hilbert curve top and bottom finish looks so great with it!
Vase by Wrightmedia (https://www.printables.com/model/252190-vase-collection), printed as a test, scaled to 30 mm.
Steam Deck Dock by loicloic (https://www.printables.com/model/135243-stand-for-valve-steam-deck), printed for my colleague.
My Monthly Hobby for February 2023 is 3D printing, modeling, experimenting.
I did a bunch of printing of both downloaded models and ones I designed, and it is quite fun.
My first 3D printer was a 101 Hero, then about a year ago I bought a Creality Halot One CL-60 resin printer, and now with a Creality Ender 3 Pro I got back to FDM printing.
I'm no electrical engineer but I think I know why my 3d printer isn't heating 😅
Testing out the black PLA from Overture with cuddling cats.
#3dprinting #creality #ender3 #PLA #catsofmastodon #caturday
Give me a 3D printer... and I will print a Godzilla, for sure. Here's my full review of the Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro:
#3DPrinter #Creality #Godzilla
Made a really nice one button interface for my 3D printer in Home Assistant based on its state:
Printing > Pause
Off > On
I also have a cancelled and complete states I wanna to setup for reprint.
3D printing peeps: how much better is a Prusa i3 vs a Creality Ender 3 v2 with a bed leveller?
If I have to knock something out without much time to experiment, will the Prusa be more reliable?
Do both printers play nicely with Linux?
This will be used for work. I'm technical but I have minimal experience with 3D printing.
I'd like to keep costs down where possible.
Kratos - 3D Printed in PLA Copper.
0.2mm layer height
120mm/s with Sonic Pad
Ender 3 S1
Took a wild shot and printed this.
0.2mm layer height
100mm/s with Sonic Pad
6 hours print time.
How's this for Meta, the first functional print from the newly assembled #Creality Ender 5 pro, a set of allen key holders.
Bench cleared, and ender 5 pro assembly in progress. I need some hardware as previous owner did not include a few screws. Otherwise they did a great job packing and labeling. However they disassembled the printer far more than how it ships and there are no instructions so I spent 2 hours and only got it to about 75% complete. #creality #3dPrinting
Bit of a production: Two printers #3DPrinting parts needed for upgrading my Ender 3 Pro. One is an #CrealityEnder3Pro and the other is a #AnycubicLinearPlus Delta printer #Creality #Anycubic